This probably added another hour or two to the job but is not too difficult once you have the timing belt off. You have to remove the timing belt to replace the water pump, so it makes sense to change it at the same time, especially since I didn't get to mine until I had 85K on it. They all need to line up once the new belt is installed. It is on the back plate of the gear right up against the block. The mark at the crank is an obvious V on the block and the matching notch on the crank gear is easy to find also. Make sure to line up the mark by the I (for intake) on the left pulley with the V shape at the top of the casing and the mark by the E (for exhaust) on the right pulley with the V shape at the top of the casing. I also wedged a piece of wood in at the very bottom to hold the belt on the crank gear snuggly while installing the belt. Then unlock the tensioner, make sure the belt tightens up and re-lock the tensioner. Have the tensioner locked in position so that the belt is slightly loose when installed. To install the timing belt, start at the bottom and work your way around counter-clock wise installing on the tensioner last. You don't need to mess with the large bolt in the center. The crank pulley comes off by removing the 4 (10 ml) bolts. There were 7 (10 ml) bolts in my timing belt cover. You will also need to remove the Water pump pulley 3 (10 ml bolts) to get the timing belt cover off. Each one was a challenge of its own due to very limited access and they were very tightly torqued down. There are 3 (17 ml) bolts that hold the bracket onto the block. Jacking it down didn't seem to hurt anything, just make sure you keep the engine supported while the motor mount is removed. I had to jack the engine down a full inch or more to get my breaker bar on the Bolt facing the passenger side of the car. Removing the Motor mount bracket from the block was about the hardest part of the whole job. ![]() The timing belt cover would not come off until I removed it. You will also have to remove the motor mount bracket on the block. This gave me more room to remove the motor mount more easily. To remove the motor mount I also removed the two 10 ml bolts holding the power steering reservoir to the body. (Count on breaking them and buy something to replace them) I had to break them, they would not unscrew as intended. One is hiding under the edge of the Fog light hole cover. There are 3 plastic retainers on the fender cover. I didn't remove the plastic retainers on the cover under the Fog Light hole. There are some very tight places that require standard wrenches to get to some of the bolts that need to be removed and other places that require extensions. While the list of tools is correct, make sure you have a variety of ratchets and wrenches and extensions of the sizes specified. Here are some additional things that might help you do this if you attempt it yourself. I just replaced the Timing Belt and Water Pump on my 2000 Sephia this past weekend. That should cover everything, replacement is the inverse, should take you about 2 hours. 1/4 turn more, until i feel there is no resistance in the cam gears, then mark with a chalk stick, makes it so much easier to put the new belt on.Ĩ- loosen timing belt tensioner (14mm bolt, left pulley) ![]() (6 10mm bolts)Ħ- with the 21mm socket at the crank pulley give the engine two full turns and align all the timing marks (small arrows pointing downwards you'll find three markings, 2 in the valve cover above the cam gears, and one one the block above the crank) TIP: I like to give the engine the two full turns, verify that everything is fine and then give it an aprox. ![]() It will give you better access to the bolts in the timing belt cover.ĥ- remove timing belt cover. remove two plastic retainers using the phillips screwdriver, remove 3 10mm bolts that attach the cover to the crossmember (radiator support).Ĥ- remove both alternator and power steering belts.ħ- put second jack under the engine and jack it up until you can see the engine moving upwards just a couple millimeters (too much might damage the motor mounts).Ĩ- remove left motor mount (the one by the belts) using 17mm deep socket. 2- remove two platic retainers in the cover under the fog light hole, purpose of this is to provide enough room for the fender cover to move around.ģ- cover underneath the left fender to access the crank pulley.
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